Using Self-contained automatic flash for closeups
Caveat/warning
Background
One
of the greatest aids to flash photography was the invention of
through-the-lens (TTL) flash metering. With TTL flash,
correct flash exposures may be made with little or no knowledge of
flash theory. Since light intensity varies inversely with the square
of the distance between the flash and the subject, measuring the
precise flash to subject distance is the major
consideration when shooting closeups, and manual flash units
essentially limit you to the use of one f/stop for any given
distance. TTL flash eliminates this worry, but while I would have loved TTL flash, I refused to
part with my Minolta XD-11 until I moved to digital. I did not want to resort to manual
flash to shoot closeups, so I used a self contained automatic
flash, my Vivitar 283.
With
a self contained automatic flash, a sensor on the
flash unit reads the amount of light reflected from the subject and
automatically shuts the flash off when sufficient light is detected.
As long as you keep the flash closer than its maximum range, good
exposures are virtually assured; the photographer need not worry
about distance or guide numbers.
However,
the instruction manuals also list a minimum
distance for good exposure. The manufacturers expect most people to
mount the flash on a hot shoe and make no provision for shooting
accurate closeups. At ranges less than about 2 feet, parallax becomes
the limiting factor: the hot shoe mounted flash fires at one place
and the sensor reads another, neither of which correspond with the
subject seen by the lens. The light entering the lens (at this time)
is less than the light reaching the sensor, and the result is
underexposure. The solution is simply to hold the flash off camera
with a bracket, connect it to the camera with a PC cord and aim the
sensor
at the subject. Now you can get really close!
Increasing Depth of Field
Depending
on the model, the flash may have one or several usable f-stops
in the auto mode. The Vivitar 283 has 4 such f stops, selected
by a color coded dial. For ISO 100, the "purple" mode
selects f/11. This is the smallest f-stop that the 283 is
designed to handle. But what happens when you need to stop down for
even more depth of field? You can trick the flash into
giving you more light by placing a neutral density (ND) filter over
the light sensor (but not the flash head). I use the light control
kit that I bought from Lepp & Associates years ago, and attach
the flexible filters with velcro.
With
a neutral density (ND) filter in place, the sensor receives less
light and the flash compensates by increasing the output; all you
have to do is stop down the lens by the appropriate amount. For
example, if you set your flash to the f/11 exposure mode and place a
two stop ND filter over the sensor, you must close the aperture
two stops to f/22 (other things being equal). You might worry that
the flash won't have sufficient power to give you a couple more stops
of light, but I have never found this to be a problem with short
flash-to-subject distances. Exactly how many additional
stops you get depends on the power of the flash you own. Experiment!
I have found that I can get up to 5 additional stops from my Vivitar
283 at ranges less than about 1.5 feet.
Minolta 200X flash with 1-stop ND sheet over sensor |
Light loss in lenses at close range
There
is one complication. Fortunately, it is the only complication I’ve
encountered with this method. Most macro lenses (in fact, most
lenses) do not transmit the same amount of light at all focusing
distances. For any given f-stop, lenses transmit less light at closer
focusing distances than they do when focused to infinity. The closer
a lens focuses, the less light is transmitted. My old 100mm macro loses two
f-stops at the closest focusing distance (lifesize, or 1:1 in this
case). It loses one f-stop at half-lifesize (1:2), and about a half
f-stop at one-fifth lifesize. If you ignore this fact, you will
under-expose your image (and proper exposure was super-critical when I shot slide film). This is why I said “other things being
equal” earlier. One notable exception to this rule is internal
focusing lenses; they do not lose any light when focused closer.
Some
lenses have an exposure scale built-in. These
lenses tell you how many stops of light have been lost at a given
focusing distance. Not all lens manufacturers are this considerate.
If your lens does not provide this scale, you will need to perform a
simple test. To find out how much light your lens losses, you will
need to mount your camera with the macro lens on a tripod and point
it at a uniform surface (such as a wall). Start by focusing to
infinity and take note of the exposure. Now manually focus your lens
closer and take note of the exposure change. Write the information
down for each 1/3 or ½ stop of light lost. I wrote the information
on a sticker and placed in on a non-rotating part of the lens, in
easy view.
Sticker with EV adjustments on my old macro lens |
Getting the right exposure
Now
all you need is some basic arithmetic. Suppose your flash will expose
correctly at f/5.6 with ISO 100. If you place a four-stop (16x)
ND filter over the sensor, and the focusing distance requires an
additional stop of exposure, what is your final f-stop? You need to
stop down four stops to f/22 for the ND filter, then open up one stop
to f/16. Simple! Set your aperture to f/16 and shoot. As long as you
remain within the range of the flash, the exposures should be good.
What
is your final aperture if your flash is set to expose correctly at
f/4, you use a two-stop (4x) ND filter, and your lens will lose a
half-stop of light? Close down two stops for the ND filter to f/8,
then open up a half to f/6.3. If you didn’t know it was f/6.3, just
set the aperture halfway between f/8 and f/5.6. No problem.
The
exposure technique also works for two or more self-contained
automatic flashes, if you prefer multiple flash units. I experimented
with two flashes at various angles and found that the exposures were
still good. Be certain to set each flash to the same setting, unless
you are experimenting.
Diffusion
Sometimes
you may want harsher light, sometimes you may want softer light. You
might want to try using a wide-angle diffuser to soften the light. Or
if you don’t have one, experiment with varying thicknesses of
tissue taped over the flash head. I used the translucent plastic
from a lemonade mix container; I cut it and shaped it to fit over the
flash head. Velcro secures it. Note that I reduced the output of
the flash somewhat by using such thick plastic; the maximum flash
distance is reduced and I can not use that particular diffuser for
“normal” photos (meaning, at distances greater than a couple of feet).
Another great idea is this custom diffuser from Brian Valentine (aka LordV): coke can diffuser. Actually I find the quality of his light to be the most natural I've seen from a flash.
There are many other options, which is an entire subject unto itself.
Remember not to cover the flash sensor.
Another great idea is this custom diffuser from Brian Valentine (aka LordV): coke can diffuser. Actually I find the quality of his light to be the most natural I've seen from a flash.
There are many other options, which is an entire subject unto itself.
Remember not to cover the flash sensor.
That’s
a lot of equipment to hold!
If you hand-hold, you will also want a way to hold the
flash(es). Many photographers have designed or built
flash-holders/ macro flash kits. Your local store is likely to have
a very generic unit. I think the majority of these are too bulky.
Search the magazines for catalogs, or make one yourself. For one of
the best ideas I’ve seen, I highly recommend that you read John
Shaw’s Closeups in Nature.
He is a great writer, a superb photographer, and the you’ll get a
lot out of the book even if you never borrow his flash mount idea. For myself, I use a Wimberley macro flash holder, or I reverse the lens collar and mount a flash on that, depending on the lens I'm using at the time. Really Right Stuff also has some interesting ideas.
Lens collar with QR foot, small clamp with small ballhead reversed. |
In conclusion
If
you have a camera capable of TTL flash metering, then by all means
use it. TTL flash is the easiest method available. But if you do not
have TTL flash available, then using a self-contained automatic flash
is a very workable alternative. I found it more flexible than
using a manual flash method. I came up with this technique while I
was still in school and could not afford to “upgrade” my system. I confess, I now use a TTL flash.
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