For years, I've been on the lookout for something that didn't shift, but I assumed I'd have to get a geared head to achieve that level of precision. I'm happy to say I was wrong.
I discovered the brand, FLM, when I read this dpreview article: https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/battle-of-the-titans-top-ball-heads-tested. I was impressed with just about everything I read about it. The 58mm model seemed a bit large, more than I needed for my gear. After much research (way too much), I bought one of the 48mm models... the CB-48F II. There are two other options that I felt I didn't need: a tilt function, and a pan function (it clicks every 15 degrees). The FLM SRB-60 clamp looks like a great design, but since I already have a pair of good clamps, I bought the model without a clamp.
Before I go further, I want to clear up some confusion. The FLM ballheads have such fine precision that it is possible to turn the locking knob several times before it feels secure, if you don't have any tension set. This has been a source of misunderstanding, misinformation, and bad reviews against the brand. These people haven't read the manual. Please do so. The FLM heads are designed with setting a tension in mind. Once you have the tension set correctly, a quick half-turn will lock the ball enough that it won't slip. Set correctly, you can move the head around yourself, but it won't move otherwise. Slightly more tightening will make it firm enough that you can't move the ball at all. I don't know if the scale is consistent across all the heads, but I have my minimum tension set to "10". At that setting, when loose, I can aim the camera freely, and a half-turn locks it. Note that it is possible to keep turning but there is no need to do so, and it gives enough feedback that you should know it's solid.
The FLM CB-48F II is small as far as I'm concerned (relative to 54mm ball heads I've used). I consider it light at under 1.5 lbs.
The panning base also shows degree marks on the outside of the head, instead of inside a little window.
With my lever clamp attached, I have 100% freedom of motion in every direction allowed by the head. No part of the clamp hits any part of the head.
The CB-48F does not get stiff in cold weather, in my experience so far (below freezing but not far below, yet). It continues to be as smooth as it is at normal room temperatures.
Unlike some other brands, FLM doesn't expect you to necessarily use their clamps, and leaves the platforms unlocked (no red loctite!). When I got it, I simply unscrewed the basic round platform, screwed the reversible stud into my clamp, and mounted the other end of the stud on the ball. I used some nail polish to keep it tight, without being permanent, just in case I damage my clamp and need to replace it. For the record, I have accidentally dumped my tripod head-first onto concrete and damaged my clamp beyond use. So I now keep a padded cover over the ball head when it is not in use. Any clamp with a female 3/8"-16 thread will fit the FLM (most of their heads use this 3/8"-16 post).
Strength is a non-issue for the CB-48. I suppose if I had a large supertele like a 600 f/4, I would want the bigger sibling, the CB-58, but I would much rather use a gimbal for balance in that case anyway. My largest lens is a 100-400 and the CB-48F holds it at any angle, easily. I can mount it in very ridiculous and unrealistic ways, such as by the L-bracket instead of the lens collar, in the drop notch; it won't budge when tight. Obviously this is silly. It was only a test (and could strain the lens mount on the camera over time), but it proves the strength is way more than I need. I like that. Overkill is fine. I have no worries.
The main locking knob is large, easy to reach, and easy to use with gloves. It sticks out to the left and back when the drop notch faces forward, away from me. The main knob is a bit slower than other knobs I've used, having a finer thread than most. I think this is what allows the ball to be so precise and not shift when I lock it. Yet, it doesn't take much longer to lock vs other heads I've used, and you can easily feel when it is tight. You just need to set it up correctly.
The tension control on the FLM is much easier to use than most. All you do is set the tension you desire on the main locking knob, then rotate the tension counter-clockwise until it stops, and that tension is now your minimum. You can easily undo it and reset it as desired. No need to use a tiny thumb screw; this can be adjusted easily even with gloves on. With the tension set, you can also reduce the amount of turn needed by the main knob to fully lock the ball, making it fast and easy to use.
The pan knob sits to the right and back, just over 90 degrees from the main knob. It is easy to use with gloves, and is also finer threaded than most pan controls. It takes more turns to loosen relative to other ball heads I've used. I've read this is to allow it to sit a little bit looser, which, according to another maker, reduces vibrations. I haven't tested this at all. I just know that I can't stand not being able to lock the panning base down tightly. And thankfully, the CB-48F locks solidly. When it is tight, I can't accidentally turn the base. Even when loose, the panning base has a fair amount of resistance, and the fine threads allow you to progressively increase the resistance as desired, until fully locked.
Both knobs are gently fluted and easy to use and grip. No hard or sharp edges, but nothing to slip either.
All of the features I've described above are great, but the thing I like the most is the lack of shift while I tighten the main knob. When I do closeups, this is a fantastic thing. One of my old ball heads shifted so much I could easily see it happen even with a wide angle lens.
Even when doing closeups, I could not detect shifting with the FLM CB-48F II as I locked the ball head tight. I decided to test it at 1:1 magnification on a "full frame" camera, roughly mimicking the test performed by dpreview with the FLM 43mm and 58mm heads. I photographed my video card box. In the first image, I tightened it just enough to hold the camera without drooping. Then, without making any other changes, I tightened the head further (another 180 degrees). What you see below are 100% crops (800x600) from the upper left corner of the image. Looking at the corner was the only way I could see a difference. For reference, the letters are just over 2mm tall on the actual box. So the shift in the frame is a fraction of a millimeter. That's amazing!
Pros:
Cons:
I couldn't be happier with this purchase. I can't imagine a better ball head.
I like this ball head so much I am tempted to buy a 2nd copy just in case it is ever discontinued and I damage mine.
It worked flawlessly in all kinds of weather. Rain, extreme cold, you name it. It really is one of those items that I forget because it just works.
Precise framing is super easy since the ball doesn't shift perceptively during lockdown.
I've found that I sometimes bump the friction ring. I've never noticed it happen but I find the setting slightly different, like I set it to 10 and later find it at 9. So it would be nice if FLM could give the ring a little more resistance.
When I photographed a supermoon/lunar eclipse, to aim up I had to reverse the head from my normal orientation, and this made reaching the controls awkward. I adapted.
If you want to do panos, I suggest using a panning clamp on top; that way you only level the clamp/camera and don't care about the rest of the support. If you do lots of panos, then an Arca-Swiss P0 head may be an easier solution.
I discovered the brand, FLM, when I read this dpreview article: https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/battle-of-the-titans-top-ball-heads-tested. I was impressed with just about everything I read about it. The 58mm model seemed a bit large, more than I needed for my gear. After much research (way too much), I bought one of the 48mm models... the CB-48F II. There are two other options that I felt I didn't need: a tilt function, and a pan function (it clicks every 15 degrees). The FLM SRB-60 clamp looks like a great design, but since I already have a pair of good clamps, I bought the model without a clamp.
Before I go further, I want to clear up some confusion. The FLM ballheads have such fine precision that it is possible to turn the locking knob several times before it feels secure, if you don't have any tension set. This has been a source of misunderstanding, misinformation, and bad reviews against the brand. These people haven't read the manual. Please do so. The FLM heads are designed with setting a tension in mind. Once you have the tension set correctly, a quick half-turn will lock the ball enough that it won't slip. Set correctly, you can move the head around yourself, but it won't move otherwise. Slightly more tightening will make it firm enough that you can't move the ball at all. I don't know if the scale is consistent across all the heads, but I have my minimum tension set to "10". At that setting, when loose, I can aim the camera freely, and a half-turn locks it. Note that it is possible to keep turning but there is no need to do so, and it gives enough feedback that you should know it's solid.
Details
The FLM CB-48F II is small as far as I'm concerned (relative to 54mm ball heads I've used). I consider it light at under 1.5 lbs.
The panning base also shows degree marks on the outside of the head, instead of inside a little window.
With my lever clamp attached, I have 100% freedom of motion in every direction allowed by the head. No part of the clamp hits any part of the head.
The CB-48F does not get stiff in cold weather, in my experience so far (below freezing but not far below, yet). It continues to be as smooth as it is at normal room temperatures.
Clamps
Unlike some other brands, FLM doesn't expect you to necessarily use their clamps, and leaves the platforms unlocked (no red loctite!). When I got it, I simply unscrewed the basic round platform, screwed the reversible stud into my clamp, and mounted the other end of the stud on the ball. I used some nail polish to keep it tight, without being permanent, just in case I damage my clamp and need to replace it. For the record, I have accidentally dumped my tripod head-first onto concrete and damaged my clamp beyond use. So I now keep a padded cover over the ball head when it is not in use. Any clamp with a female 3/8"-16 thread will fit the FLM (most of their heads use this 3/8"-16 post).
Strength
Strength is a non-issue for the CB-48. I suppose if I had a large supertele like a 600 f/4, I would want the bigger sibling, the CB-58, but I would much rather use a gimbal for balance in that case anyway. My largest lens is a 100-400 and the CB-48F holds it at any angle, easily. I can mount it in very ridiculous and unrealistic ways, such as by the L-bracket instead of the lens collar, in the drop notch; it won't budge when tight. Obviously this is silly. It was only a test (and could strain the lens mount on the camera over time), but it proves the strength is way more than I need. I like that. Overkill is fine. I have no worries.
Ergonomics
The main locking knob is large, easy to reach, and easy to use with gloves. It sticks out to the left and back when the drop notch faces forward, away from me. The main knob is a bit slower than other knobs I've used, having a finer thread than most. I think this is what allows the ball to be so precise and not shift when I lock it. Yet, it doesn't take much longer to lock vs other heads I've used, and you can easily feel when it is tight. You just need to set it up correctly.
The tension control on the FLM is much easier to use than most. All you do is set the tension you desire on the main locking knob, then rotate the tension counter-clockwise until it stops, and that tension is now your minimum. You can easily undo it and reset it as desired. No need to use a tiny thumb screw; this can be adjusted easily even with gloves on. With the tension set, you can also reduce the amount of turn needed by the main knob to fully lock the ball, making it fast and easy to use.
The pan knob sits to the right and back, just over 90 degrees from the main knob. It is easy to use with gloves, and is also finer threaded than most pan controls. It takes more turns to loosen relative to other ball heads I've used. I've read this is to allow it to sit a little bit looser, which, according to another maker, reduces vibrations. I haven't tested this at all. I just know that I can't stand not being able to lock the panning base down tightly. And thankfully, the CB-48F locks solidly. When it is tight, I can't accidentally turn the base. Even when loose, the panning base has a fair amount of resistance, and the fine threads allow you to progressively increase the resistance as desired, until fully locked.
Both knobs are gently fluted and easy to use and grip. No hard or sharp edges, but nothing to slip either.
Precision
All of the features I've described above are great, but the thing I like the most is the lack of shift while I tighten the main knob. When I do closeups, this is a fantastic thing. One of my old ball heads shifted so much I could easily see it happen even with a wide angle lens.
Even when doing closeups, I could not detect shifting with the FLM CB-48F II as I locked the ball head tight. I decided to test it at 1:1 magnification on a "full frame" camera, roughly mimicking the test performed by dpreview with the FLM 43mm and 58mm heads. I photographed my video card box. In the first image, I tightened it just enough to hold the camera without drooping. Then, without making any other changes, I tightened the head further (another 180 degrees). What you see below are 100% crops (800x600) from the upper left corner of the image. Looking at the corner was the only way I could see a difference. For reference, the letters are just over 2mm tall on the actual box. So the shift in the frame is a fraction of a millimeter. That's amazing!
 |
| before tightening |
 |
| after tightening (about 180 degree turn) |
Summary
Pros:
- Extremely precise
- Strong
- Smooth
- Easy to replace clamp with any that can thread onto a 3/8"-16 post.
- Easy to use with gloves
- Ergonomics
- Good feedback when tightening
- Panning knob locks solidly
- Good dampening on panning base
- Works well in the cold
- Easy to adjust tension
- Relatively inexpensive if you get a basic model
- Combines all the features I care about into a single package
Cons:
- Can be pricey if you get one with all the options
I couldn't be happier with this purchase. I can't imagine a better ball head.
I like this ball head so much I am tempted to buy a 2nd copy just in case it is ever discontinued and I damage mine.
The One Year+ update:
After more than a year with the FLM I can add a couple more comments:It worked flawlessly in all kinds of weather. Rain, extreme cold, you name it. It really is one of those items that I forget because it just works.
Precise framing is super easy since the ball doesn't shift perceptively during lockdown.
I've found that I sometimes bump the friction ring. I've never noticed it happen but I find the setting slightly different, like I set it to 10 and later find it at 9. So it would be nice if FLM could give the ring a little more resistance.
When I photographed a supermoon/lunar eclipse, to aim up I had to reverse the head from my normal orientation, and this made reaching the controls awkward. I adapted.
If you want to do panos, I suggest using a panning clamp on top; that way you only level the clamp/camera and don't care about the rest of the support. If you do lots of panos, then an Arca-Swiss P0 head may be an easier solution.
No comments:
Post a Comment